Sunday, July 10, 2011

Nixon Fishing Report: Part Four

As our boat sped across the open lake, we had the opportunity to reflect on what we had just experienced.  We each decided that if our trip had to end at that moment; we were content.  The flight-seeing was beyond description and we were all still processing it when the boat slowed down and Tony started preparing our rods.

Waiting in line
Wolverine Creek feeds into a large lake.  At the mouth of the creek, the sockeye salmon school together prior to making their way up the rapids to spawn in a lake at a higher altitude.  This area is protected on three sides by steep rock walls covered in vegetation.  To fish for sockeye, the fishing guides line up flat bottom boats from the mouth of the creek out into the lake.  As each boat limits out on sockeye, they leave and the next boat moves up.  You are essentially fishing a small pond.

Brown bear
When we arrived, there were two boats ahead of us.  We had timed our trip so that the fishermen would be leaving about the time we arrived.  As we pulled into our place in line, I looked beyond the two boats ahead of us to see a brown bear.  He was walking along the shore and would dash into the water and chase the schools of fish.  From our vantage point, we were able to see the fish dart away underwater and then re-school once the water calmed down.

Snorkeling
Tony told us that when the bear appears, to stop fishing and give him his space.  These bears have a plentiful food source and because this one was an adolescent male, we just needed to watch him and not do anything to provoke him.  It wasn't long before a second bear appeared, about the same size as the first.  We assumed that these two were brothers and after a small tussle, complete with sound effects, one bear disappeared into the woods.

By now, all fishing had stopped.  We watched as the remaining bear would snorkel for his dinner but he wasn't having much luck.  He tried chasing them into the shallow water to pounce on them, but wasn't successful with that method either.  I was beginning to feel sorry for him!

He must have given up because he, too, disappeared into the woods and we were able to resume fishing.
Fishing with JDaddy

Fishing for sockeye is a little different than the fishing I am familiar with.  When they are spawning, they don't bite.  To catch one you use a method known as "flossing" where you cast your line out; let the line sink; then set the hook even though you may not have felt a fish on your line.  As the fish are swimming along, your fishing line is fed into their mouth and when you set the hook, you are essentially snagging them.

Joe has more experience with this and quickly caught the first fish.  Reese was soon behind.  Our limit was 3 fish each but you can only keep the fish that you hook in the mouth.  The first boat in line completed their limit and we moved up in line to even more fish.

Just as we were really getting this down, another bear appeared!  Everyone either stopped fishing all together (me!) or began casting away from the bear.  We watched as he, too, chased the fish and messed up our fishing yet again.

As the bear chased the fish into the shallower water, he finally caught one.  It was fascinating watching him sit chest deep in the water and hold the salmon in his paws as seagulls circled waiting for their turn.  He soon left and fishing resumed.

Black bear
The boat ahead of us in line limited out and we moved to the head of the line and began really catching fish.  We were using spinning reels which required far less dexterity than the fly rods we had used earlier in the week.  Once again, as we fished another bear appeared:  this time it was a black bear.

He was much more cautious than the earlier brown bears who had visited and didn't stick around for long.  He never got in the water so we were able to continue fishing.  Joe and Reese quickly limited out and I had one fish left to catch before we could go home.

By this time, a line of boats with fishermen had formed behind us.  In the boat directly behind us was the pilot, Bernie, who would fly us home, with Pilot Doug's son and daughter-in-law who had flown out to fish.  They had limited on sockeye so they, too, were waiting on me.

Tony announced to the 3 or 4 boats lined up that we had one more fish to catch.  I was standing on the bow of the boat and I could see the fish swimming below me.  My boat was quiet as was Bernie's boat.  All eyes were on me.

After a day of almost flawless casting, I began making some of the worst casts ever.  Because the salmon were on along the bank on the opposite side, you had to cast right along the shore, but not on the rocks, and under the overhanging trees.  All while you have 15-20 pairs of eyes focused on you.  I was sweating.

I would snag a fish and get him almost to the boat and he would flip off.  After 3 or 4 of these the pressure increased when a brown bear appeared on the shoreline.  So not only was I casting between rocks and trees but now I had to keep an eye on the bear about 10 feet away.  Drops of sweat were running down my face even though it was about 55 degrees.


Feeling the pressure!
There was no pressure at all and I expertly raised my rod to execute the perfect cast only to find that I had failed to open the bail on my reel and my hook and weight landed with a thud about 4 feet from the boat.  I heard 15-20 people utter a collective sigh.  The bear was playing in the shallows along the shore.

I regrouped and cast perfectly into the pool along the shoreline.  Joe and Reese were counting off the seconds required to allow my hook to sink; my three fellow boat-mates yelled, "set the hook" and I felt a fish fight back.  I was following Tony's instructions to get the fish close enough to net.  I could hear the 15-20 people preparing to move their boats up in line.  Six feet from the boat the salmon made a last flying leap and ripped the hook from his mouth and got away.  15-20 people sighed and sat back down in their boats.  The brown bear and I looked at one another.  He felt my pain.

I looked at the bear.  I looked at my family.  And I looked at the 15-20 people in the boats waiting behind me and I handed Tony my rod.  I am not a die-hard fisherman like Joe and Reese.  I enjoy the social aspects of fishing but I really enjoy just being outside and seeing things you can't see unless you are on the water.  I get great joy watching Joe land a trophy trout or Reese learn to fly fish.  My day had been a success and one fish was not going to make it any more complete.

Tony asked me that if he snagged a fish for me on his first cast, would I reel it in.  I agreed and with a perfect cast and a perfect hook set, Tony handed me the rod.  Following his instructions, I landed my last fish and the 15-20 people stood up and applauded.  Even my bear buddy nodded his approval and we took up anchor and headed to the plane.

This day would definitely be remembered as one of the top 5 experiences of my life.  I am so grateful that we have the opportunity to really explore this area.  Alaska will never be home but the memories I've made here will last a lifetime.

Oh yeah!  The fishing report:
First fish:  Joe
Most fish: who knows?
Biggest fish:  they were all the same size
Most athletic fish:  Jill
Most photogenic:  Reese

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