Nixon Fishing Report: Part Four

As our boat sped across the open lake, we had the opportunity to reflect on what we had just experienced.  We each decided that if our trip had to end at that moment; we were content.  The flight-seeing was beyond description and we were all still processing it when the boat slowed down and Tony started preparing our rods.

Waiting in line

Wolverine Creek feeds into a large lake.  At the mouth of the creek, the sockeye salmon school together prior to making their way up the rapids to spawn in a lake at a higher altitude.  This area is protected on three sides by steep rock walls covered in vegetation.  To fish for sockeye, the fishing guides line up flat bottom boats from the mouth of the creek out into the lake.  As each boat limits out on sockeye, they leave and the next boat moves up.  You are essentially fishing a small pond.

Brown bear

When we arrived, there were two boats ahead of us.  We had timed our trip so that the fishermen would be leaving about the time we arrived.  As we pulled into our place in line, I looked beyond the two boats ahead of us to see a brown bear.  He was walking along the shore and would dash into the water and chase the schools of fish.  From our vantage point, we were able to see the fish dart away underwater and then re-school once the water calmed down.

Snorkeling

Tony told us that when the bear appears, to stop fishing and give him his space.  These bears have a plentiful food source and because this one was an adolescent male, we just needed to watch him and not do anything to provoke him.  It wasn't long before a second bear appeared, about the same size as the first.  We assumed that these two were brothers and after a small tussle, complete with sound effects, one bear disappeared into the woods.

By now, all fishing had stopped.  We watched as the remaining bear would snorkel for his dinner but he wasn't having much luck.  He tried chasing them into the shallow water to pounce on them, but wasn't successful with that method either.  I was beginning to feel sorry for him!

He must have given up because he, too, disappeared into the woods and we were able to resume fishing.

Fishing with JDaddy

Fishing for sockeye is a little different than the fishing I am familiar with.  When they are spawning, they don't bite.  To catch one you use a method known as "flossing" where you cast your line out; let the line sink; then set the hook even though you may not have felt a fish on your line.  As the fish are swimming along, your fishing line is fed into their mouth and when you set the hook, you are essentially snagging them.

Joe has more experience with this and quickly caught the first fish.  Reese was soon behind.  Our limit was 3 fish each but you can only keep the fish that you hook in the mouth.  The first boat in line completed their limit and we moved up in line to even more fish.

Just as we were really getting this down, another bear appeared!  Everyone either stopped fishing all together (me!) or began casting away from the bear.  We watched as he, too, chased the fish and messed up our fishing yet again.

As the bear chased the fish into the shallower water, he finally caught one.  It was fascinating watching him sit chest deep in the water and hold the salmon in his paws as seagulls circled waiting for their turn.  He soon left and fishing resumed.

Black bear

The boat ahead of us in line limited out and we moved to the head of the line and began really catching fish.  We were using spinning reels which required far less dexterity than the fly rods we had used earlier in the week.  Once again, as we fished another bear appeared:  this time it was a black bear.

He was much more cautious than the earlier brown bears who had visited and didn't stick around for long.  He never got in the water so we were able to continue fishing.  Joe and Reese quickly limited out and I had one fish left to catch before we could go home.

By this time, a line of boats with fishermen had formed behind us.  In the boat directly behind us was the pilot, Bernie, who would fly us home, with Pilot Doug's son and daughter-in-law who had flown out to fish.  They had limited on sockeye so they, too, were waiting on me.

Tony announced to the 3 or 4 boats lined up that we had one more fish to catch.  I was standing on the bow of the boat and I could see the fish swimming below me.  My boat was quiet as was Bernie's boat.  All eyes were on me.

After a day of almost flawless casting, I began making some of the worst casts ever.  Because the salmon were on along the bank on the opposite side, you had to cast right along the shore, but not on the rocks, and under the overhanging trees.  All while you have 15-20 pairs of eyes focused on you.  I was sweating.

I would snag a fish and get him almost to the boat and he would flip off.  After 3 or 4 of these the pressure increased when a brown bear appeared on the shoreline.  So not only was I casting between rocks and trees but now I had to keep an eye on the bear about 10 feet away.  Drops of sweat were running down my face even though it was about 55 degrees.

Feeling the pressure!

There was no pressure at all and I expertly raised my rod to execute the perfect cast only to find that I had failed to open the bail on my reel and my hook and weight landed with a thud about 4 feet from the boat.  I heard 15-20 people utter a collective sigh.  The bear was playing in the shallows along the shore.

I regrouped and cast perfectly into the pool along the shoreline.  Joe and Reese were counting off the seconds required to allow my hook to sink; my three fellow boat-mates yelled, "set the hook" and I felt a fish fight back.  I was following Tony's instructions to get the fish close enough to net.  I could hear the 15-20 people preparing to move their boats up in line.  Six feet from the boat the salmon made a last flying leap and ripped the hook from his mouth and got away.  15-20 people sighed and sat back down in their boats.  The brown bear and I looked at one another.  He felt my pain.

I looked at the bear.  I looked at my family.  And I looked at the 15-20 people in the boats waiting behind me and I handed Tony my rod.  I am not a die-hard fisherman like Joe and Reese.  I enjoy the social aspects of fishing but I really enjoy just being outside and seeing things you can't see unless you are on the water.  I get great joy watching Joe land a trophy trout or Reese learn to fly fish.  My day had been a success and one fish was not going to make it any more complete.

Tony asked me that if he snagged a fish for me on his first cast, would I reel it in.  I agreed and with a perfect cast and a perfect hook set, Tony handed me the rod.  Following his instructions, I landed my last fish and the 15-20 people stood up and applauded.  Even my bear buddy nodded his approval and we took up anchor and headed to the plane.

This day would definitely be remembered as one of the top 5 experiences of my life.  I am so grateful that we have the opportunity to really explore this area.  Alaska will never be home but the memories I've made here will last a lifetime.

Oh yeah!  The fishing report:
First fish:  Joe
Most fish: who knows?
Biggest fish:  they were all the same size
Most athletic fish:  Jill
Most photogenic:  Reese

Nixon Fishing Report: Part Three

On July 13, 2011 the Nixon's will become official residents of Alaska.  We will have fulfilled our 12 month residency requirement and by doing so, we will be entitled to quite a few benefits such as $24 hunting/fishing licenses.  Other benefits that I have come to enjoy are the long summer days; the ability to be in the middle of nowhere if you go 5 miles in any direction; and the continued shock and awe over events that occur on just "normal" days in Alaska.  The State is beyond definition and I am continually amazed at my surroundings.

To complete our fishing trifecta (rainbows, halibut, and sockeye) we booked a fly-in fishing trip across the Cook Inlet to fish the mouth of Wolverine Creek.  Joe had enjoyed a business-related trip similar to this last summer and thought it would round out Reese's vacation with us.

Sea Otter

We picked Joe up from work at 4 pm and headed the three miles to the fly-out service.  We were greeted by Doug, the owner, who would also be our pilot for the trip over.  As we donned our waders Doug asked if we would be willing for another couple to join us on our trip over.  They wanted to do some flight seeing so we would flight see; Doug would drop us off to fish; then the 3 of us would catch a smaller plane back.  Sounded like fun to us so we loaded the Otter with our gear and climbed aboard.

Reese was asked to be the copilot.  As she was strapped in and put on her headset, I was a little jealous.  She was going to have the best seat in the house to see any wildlife we might run across.  Had I any clue what we would soon be privileged to see; I would have wrestled her out of that seat and put myself in it!

We are in good hands

Instrument Panel

As we took off from the lake, we quickly gained altitude and in the distance I could see the ConocoPhillips LNG plant: the very reason I am in Alaska.  We were quickly over the water of the Cook Inlet and I could see oil and gas platforms in the distance and observe the treacherous currents for which the Inlet is famous.  Along the right side of the plane, we were able to observe the shoreline and Joe and I were watching for a glimpse of some wildlife...hopefully some bears.

A sow and her cubs

We suddenly began spotting bears:  big brown, furry dots on the bright green landscape.  Doug took a hard bank to the right and circled a sow and her two cubs.  In my mind, my day was a success.  I had seen my first brown bears.

As we approached the far mountain range, it felt as though we might be flying right into the side of a cliff but Doug expertly maneuvered the plane through the jagged peaks to give us magnificent views of huge waterfalls and crystal clear lakes.  It seemed at times as if our wings were 10 feet from a mountain wall but we had no time to be frightened.  With each turn we were experiencing surreal views of green valleys banked by rugged, jagged rocks that towered above our plane.  He suddenly climbed over one of these peaks and stretching ahead of us was a huge glacier.  The erosion it created was quite evident from that altitude and the blue ice looked like huge aquamarine stones.  It was gorgeous!

Runoff forming rivers

We flew around a bit and found our way into a deep concave impression surrounded by tall peaks.  I'm not sure but I think we were probably in the bowl of a long inactive volcano.  We gained altitude again and topped the mountain range and were back in a lush green valley with milky runoff from the melting glacier spreading across the landscape below us.  On the horizon, we spotted a lake with several small seaplanes anchored there next to flat-bottomed aluminum boats and we knew we were near our fishing spot.

Doug gently landed on the lake and it was strange to see water sprays splashing up as high as the wings.  I will confess that a water landing seemed much smoother than one on a tarmac.  I don't know if this is normal or if it was just a good landing!

We carefully exited the plane onto a makeshift boardwalk.  Our fishing guide, Tony, loaded our rods and ice chest into the boat and we were off...headed to the mouth of Wolverine Creek for the first red salmon run!

...to be continued

Nixon Fishing Report: Part Two

 3:30 a.m. came much too early today but we were excited about our first ever halibut fishing trip in the Cook Inlet.  We were dressed and out the door by 4 a.m. on our way to Ninilchik to meet up with our guide, Captain Ron.

As we were headed out the door, we noticed we had a couple of visitors:  Killer and one of her calves.  It must have been "moose-thirty" because on the hour drive to Ninilchik, we counted at least 12 moose.  I just wonder about how many we didn't see!

We arrived in Ninilchik a bit early so we made a quick pit-stop at the local park. I quickly noted the posted warning about a bear sighting in the area.  I was on high alert! As we stepped out into the cooler temperature I think we all added another layer of clothing.  We slipped on our rubber boots, complete with foot warmers, and we were ready to go.

After a brief introduction to our captain, and our fishing partner, Joe, we headed to the beach to launch the boat.

Headed to the beach

I have to explain that launching the boat is different than Texas.  I've launched from docks and boat launches.  In Ninilchik it is a little bit different.  There are no boat docks or boat launches; just a beach.  The beach we launched from is owned by the native people of Alaska.  In order to put your boat in at that location, you pay a fee.  For that fee, the boat captain backs his boat up to the water line and disengages his truck from the trailer.  From there, the boat, still on the trailer is hooked to a tractor....yes, a tractor!  We climbed aboard the boat, still on the trailer, via a 6 ft. step-ladder.  Once we were all settled, the tractor took the boat out into the water where we launched.  It was really quite efficient and definitely interesting!

My station by the life preserver

Our captain took the four of us through the safety instructions.  I'm always mindful of where the life preserver is located.  I made sure I sat right next to it!  The water was extremely calm and as we departed we were all enjoying the scenery.

Much too early!

As we made the 17 mile trip into the Inlet, we saw a variety of sea gulls.  I was relieved that we never lost sight of land even though that coast line was probably farther away than I could ever hope to swim!

Capt. Ron finally cut the engines and set the anchor.  He cut up some bait fish, herring and handed each of us a short, thick rod with a big open faced reel. As he baited the 3 inch hooks and tied on the 3 lb weights, he explained that we would be fishing on the bottom at about 170 feet.  No problem!  ....so I thought!

Reeling up a 3 lb weight from a depth of 170 feet is tiring enough.  When you have a 20-25 halibut attached to the end it has been described as reeling in a piece of plywood from the bottom of the ocean.  The cranking of the reel isn't so hard...it is the strength required to hold the rod!

No sooner than our bait hit the bottom than Reese had a strike.  She was reeling in her first fish when both Joe (JDaddy) and I had hits.  We were all three reeling in fish and with the pull of mine I was picturing at least a 150 lb halibut.  You can imagine how disappointed we all were when Ron told us that our fish were too small to keep!  They were quickly returned to the water.

She's a natural!

We continued fishing and with each line we would drop, we'd quickly get a strike.  At times I was praying that I wouldn't get a fish just so my arms could rest!  At one point, I was thinking to myself, "Halibut is currently selling for $8.99/lb at the fish market.  I would soooo buy some right now and toss this rod into the ocean!"  I was quickly sweated down and had shed the 3 or 4 layers I had worn earlier that morning and was fishing just in my rain suit and long underwear....it was quite a workout!   We finally got into some nice size halibut and in-between breaks, Reese and I were able to land our limit of two  halibut each and we also learned the reason for the baseball bat!

Capt Ron subduing a fish

Joe and Joe (JDaddy) had a different experience.  Reese and I retired to the cabin and were enjoying our snack of a PBJ when the guys were still trying to catch fish.  At one point, Joe (JDaddy) was so tired I watched as he went down on his knees trying to reel in a fish.  Another time, he was certain he was bringing in a huge fish only to find that he had lost the fish and had been "fighting" the weight the rest of the way up.  Suffice to say, we did give him a hard time about that!

JDaddy on his knees

After about 3 hours of steady fishing, both men had their limits and we headed back.  On the way back we were able to enjoy several puffins and admire the view of Mt. Illiama in the distance.

To load the boat, the procedure is reversed.  The tractor was waiting for us on the beach with Ron's trailer.  We loaded the boat on the trailer and the tractor pulled us to our cars.  Very quickly a step ladder was placed next to the boat for us to depart and we were on our way to Ron's to clean the fish and take advantage of a photo op.

It was a great day.  We came home with 48 lbs of filets which are being processed.  The awards for the day to to:

One of my keepers

First fish

First fish:  Reese
Largest fish: Reese
2nd largest fish:  Jill
Most fish:  Reese
Most lost bait:  Jill
Most improved:  Joe

I'm not sure that halibut fishing is for me.  The upper body strength it requires would require months of training to get me into the shape I need to be in to get the full enjoyment from the sport.  Joe and Reese loved it though so I'm sure I'll find myself reeling in a few more before this Alaska assignment is over....I guess I better start lifting weights!

Nixon Fishing Report: Part One

When I catch fish, Joe is a happy man.  When both Reese and I catch fish, he gets almost giddy.  He has been walking around after our fishing trip yesterday acting as if he just won the lottery.  In his world, maybe he did!

Modeling her new waders

Reese is vacationing with the 'rents over the next 10 days so we booked several fishing trips and assorted excursions with her in hopes she has so much fun she'll want to come back.  Yesterday was the first fishing trip and I'll have to say it was quite a memory maker.

We left Kenai at 4 a.m. to meet Mike, our favorite guide, for an all day drift through the Kenai Canyon.  It was the first time Joe and I had fished this particular part of the river.  It is difficult to get to and even more difficult to fish due to the erratic currents and remote location.  Our trip would prove to be even more challenging due to the rain that fell non-stop until the last hour of our trip. 

After our safety instruction, we cast off.  It was as though we had the entire river to ourselves.  The first sockeye salmon run had ended earlier in the week and the rainbows and dolly varden weren't as active as most like.  Mike warned us that any fish we caught we would have to work for. 

So excited!

The Kenai Canyon trip is about 6-7 hours long with the last hour spent motoring across Skilak Lake, a large glacier-fed lake.  A great portion of the trip is so remote that should the weather suddenly change or if there was an emergency, we had to be prepared to leave the boat and hike out about two miles.  Mike was constantly checking the weather conditions along our route and we were pleased to learn that conditions were favorable.

Reese's first trout

Mike gave Reese a short fly fishing lesson and in no time, she was casting like a pro.  Within the first hour, she landed the first fish of the day; a beautiful rainbow.  The pressure was on!  Shortly after, I landed my first rainbow; a smaller trout which Mike deemed "above average."  I think he was being diplomatic.  It would have been above-average for a sardine and definitely not picture-worthy.

She's a pro!

As we floated down the river, Mike would anchor the boat and we would get out and fish the areas along the banks.  We were all mindful of bears but it is so nice to wade into water and not have to worry about something (i.e. snakes) swimming by.  The river was so clear we could see the bottom in most places and when Mike had access to a higher vantage point, he could actually point out where we should cast because he could see the fish.  Even though the rain began falling harder, we weren't about to quit after one fish!

Reese's trophy

Reese saw her first bear along the bank and we had fallen into a lull and were enjoying the scenery but continued to fish when she got another hit.  She landed a huge rainbow and Joe and I were thrilled.  We might actually get her to come back to Alaska!  She posed for pictures and for the first time in our history of fishing with Mike, he let her hold her own fish.  

An historic moment

As we were all examining the fish, Mike pointed out that the fish had been tagged by the Wildlife Department at some part in her fish life.  He also noted that this particular hen had had a run-in with an eagle, most likely, in the past day or so.  She was missing part of one of her fins and he told us it probably happened when she was in the spawning beds and vulnerable to eagles and other predators.

Poor Joe!

Joe and I had to get serious about our fishing.  We were getting no hits so Mike switched us from fly rods to spin rods.  We were using shiny lures that he told us work to agitate the fish rather than attract them.  I must have really agitated one because I had a strike and landed a beautiful rainbow.  It wasn't quite as large as Reese's earlier fish but I had never seen one so vivid.  It looked as if it had been painted.  Gorgeous fish...  Not only were we agitating the rainbows, but now Joe was agitated.  Reese and I were definitely pulling ahead of him in the number of fish we were catching and he was catching nothing but twigs and old fishing line.

"Most Photogenic"  the fish, not me!

We continued down the river and Reese caught a few more as did I.  Joe...nothing. Mike made one last phone call and reviewed our safety instructions and we proceeded into the Canyon.  We were at the point of no return.  The walls there were sheer granite on either side and the water was flowing so swiftly there was no logic to whether you cast upstream or downstream.  We were only able to fish from one side of the boat there so we took turns while Mike would point to the best places to cast.  I enjoy fishing but I would have been content to sit there and enjoy the beauty that very few people get to see.  It was still raining, but even in the rain the water would turn from teal to turquoise in the deep areas and was still so clear we could see the boulders underneath us.

As we worked our way out of the Canyon, Mike pointed out that the river was actually flowing upstream.  The river water had nowhere to go so it would flow upstream back through the narrow canyon walls causing the strange currents we had experienced.  Very interesting.

Joe's Trophy Rainbow

Another historic moment

Reese and I were naturally giving Joe a hard time about his lack of fish.  Mike turned the boat over to a calm pool along the edge when Joe got his first strike.  We were all cheering him on as he fought his fish and I know he would have been happy if it had only been above-average but it wasn't.  Joe landed the largest rainbow he had ever caught and earned the privilege of getting to hold one for the first time, as well.  I think Mike was just as excited as we were for Joe.  Because this part of the Kenai is catch and release, Joe gently returned his trophy rainbow to the river.  We watched her for 10 minutes or so sit quietly in the shallows regaining her strength.  She had put up a good fight and would live to be caught our next trip through. 

We caught a few more "above average" trout before hitting the "restrooms" on our last leg of the trip.  As Reese and I left to visit the "ladies room" we were told to talk loudly or sing to ward off bears.  I think our laughter was enough.  Men have no concept about having to get out of chest waders and about 3-4 layers of clothes and long underwear.  I don't know what we would have done had we seen a bear when we were so vulnerable but there may very well have been two moons over Kenai!

Headed home.

The last part of our trip was across Lake Skilak.  At this point, Mike put away his oars and turned on his boat motor.  The rain had stopped and the water was like glass.  The hour trip was the perfect end to a perfect day...and Reese even spotted a huge black bear on the cliffs above the lake.

There is still some ribbing going on about the number of fish caught.  Joe claims that Reese's trophy doesn't count because it wasn't a "whole fish" due to the chunk missing from its fin.  I concede that my trophy wasn't as large as either one of their's so I've claimed that my fish is "Most Photogenic".  In the final tally, Reese caught the first fish as well as the most.  Joe caught the largest and I caught the most photogenic.  It was most definitely a successful day.

Today, we are trying to recover so we can go on our next adventure tomorrow but the trip yesterday was truly one of those that will forever remain in our memory.  To fish the Kenai Canyon is a privilege few enjoy and I'm glad to say we did it!